Repair wooden cover

For the repair of the roof using wooden planks milled softwood thickness of 20-25 mm with selected slots for drainage.
Most often you want to replace the board, decayed by gapping boards together. In this case, if the coat is vrazbezhku along the slope, atmospheric water leaking damaging just 3 boards: the top and the bottom two.
The new board is installed in place of the old strict compliance with CC distance.
It is not recommended to repair the rotten plank with inserts of new wood (frames, patches, etc.) as well as their lifetime is very short.
Podstropilny rotten timber must be completely replaced with a new to exact size and location for all vrubok rafters.
If the roof is sagging because of the rotten rafters, it must first be aligned with the jack or stands with wedges. Then, under the rafters need to install struts, connecting them to the rafter foot straps. Rotten rafters can not be changed, and strengthen wood trim, attach them with bolts.
To avoid troubles should regularly check attic floor. To do this, they must be rattling an ax, if the sound muffled, the beam needs repair or replacement. As a rule, the first beams rotted ends, fit in the wall. If damaged, it must be strengthened beams on both sides of the boards and beams, pre-treating them with antiseptic. Pads are made of the same section as the beam, but longer decaying part 2 times. They are fastened with screws.
For the manufacture of a new girder used solid and scale softwood, while for cranial bars - aspen and alder.
Cranial bars sawed lumber of exactly the right size of the old bars (this is more convenient to use the ready-made templates) and nailed to a beam with nails 4 x 100 mm. In this case, they must be placed strictly in the middle cranial bar and ensure that the nails going through the bar, got into the wood beams.
Sometimes it is a leaky roof damage and even destruction of the boards and slabs.
If the result of this we have to completely change the overlap, you must first remove the insulating layer, disassemble panels or panels removed from nests destroyed by the beam, it's all free of dirt and dust and check the breakdown of axes and a horizontal support beams.
Before replacing the ends of the new beams to antiseptic and cover with resin or bitumen and wrap two layers of roofing felt or roofing material.
If the wooden beams are made of raw wood, then when installed sockets not sealed, and remain open.
In the frame-panel houses and beams are mounted on the upper piping walls, wooden log homes - on exterior walls and cut one between the upper rims of dovetail.
In heated brick houses ends of the beams are installed on the exterior walls to a depth of 190-200 mm, and 30 mm from the wall and tightly sealed with cement. In order to increase the air gap between the end of the beam and the wall leading to a better evaporation of moisture from the ends, the ends of the beams are cut into their heads.
First place extreme beam, check the accuracy of their installation, and then in order, parallel to each other - all the rest. After using the check the horizontal level of their installation, the beam is fixed with nails, put on their shields overlapping, and on top of a layer of tar paper trail or tar paper and put a layer of insulation.
When repairing panel ceilings are first assembled frames, which then using glue and nails attached plate. The end of the finished panel (minimum length 60 mm) treated with antiseptic paste, and on the wall in the installation site are placed two layers of roofing material or roofing to asphalt mastic. Panel mounted on the beam exactly parallel to each other and fastened together with nails, which block inserts for covering the seams. The panel is placed a layer of old or new insulation.
In wooden houses as a heater, you can use the small coal or clinker, and covered them overlapping layer of 100-150 mm. Additional floor on the perimeter with a slight slope from the slag is poured band width of 1 m and a thickness of 300-400 mm. For this slag for several months kept in the air, until there is no smell of sulfur, and dried, and the clinker must water with water from a watering can.
Wooden elements of roof can be affected by the larvae of the beetle-grinder. The presence of the pest is shown by numerous holes with a whitish dust on the edges. Get rid of it can be very difficult, and sometimes it takes a few years. The most effective way to deal with the beetle-grinder is an antiseptic that can be cooked at home.
The first way: take one part of kerosene and 1 part turpentine (crude), mixed well and shaken.
The second method: 1 part hexachlorane dissolved in 99 parts of kerosene, turpentine, diesel oil or petroleum jelly. The mixture is well mixed, pour into a container with a tight lid, and insist for a week.
Three: 1 kg of vitriol poured in a glass bowl and fill it with 9 liters of water. The solution was mixed well.
As antiseptics can also use nitro or acetone.
Summer openings at beetles, cleared of wood flour with a steel wire with a loop or hook on the end, and they pressure syringe poured antiseptic.
Wooden elements affected by the fungus can be treated with a solution of sodium chloride and boric acid. For this we must take 950 g of sodium chloride and 50 g of boric acid, the mixture is thoroughly mixed, pour 5 liters of boiling water with a sponge or brush applied to the wood surface. Processing repeat 4-5 times to complete disappearance of the fungus.
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